It has been over a decade since Yaya DaCosta finished as the runner-up on America’s Next Top Model, but recovery has taken a while.
The Model for Our Maximalism : Yaya DaCosta The layers at Prada are each intricate and exciting in construction, in color, in scale. Michele’s not operating in a vacuum: There’s a renewed interest in Dolce & Gabbana tiaras with headphones attached, for example, have become a staple accessory for the brand. There’s plenty of Lurex, and there are kimonos, too. Or another with an angry tiger on the neck, or another still with a bright, naïf rainbow printed halfway down. During international Fashion Weeks, the same fashion editors who used to line up at Céline for navy-blue cashmere crewnecks with only the slightest asymmetry at the hem are now back-ordering a ribbed Gucci crewneck in stripes that range from magenta to lilac to mustard to lime. As the new minimalism had Philo at its head, this movement’s spiritual leader is Alessandro Michele, the creative director at Gucci, who wears rings on each of his fingers and has a biblical beard and a thing for metaphysical philosophy. But the pendulum has swung, and we are in a heavily bedazzled moment of maximalism, of paillettes and embellishments, of layers of lace and unexpected combinations of color. In 2010, Phoebe Philo at Céline launched a collection so strong that suddenly the entire fashion conversation was about restraint, about the purity of bold gestures and lines.
Shifts in fashion occur when they occur - when the wind blows as it hasn’t in quite some time, maybe, or the temperature changes in some nearly inscrutable way, and this has nothing to do with how many new deliveries a department store requires. Spring-summer, pre-fall, resort, pre-collection, fall-winter, and now an increasing number of “capsule” collections at apparently random intervals in ever-more-exotic, Instagrammable locations, but the presence of more garments on more runways is not the same thing as new trends. There are, on the current calendar, more fashion shows than there have ever been before.
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